The above is a laptop of the Chromebook variety, which means it is built to behave like a smartphone, in the sense that the operating system is deeply tied to the BIOS or bootrom of the machine. This essentially makes the whole thing firmware.
I think it is important to separate concerns to isolate potential points of failure and to create discrete troubleshooting domains that makes the work much easier for you when you are doing something in the system. HP and co. think it is important to make money.
In this case, this particular model of Chromebook has the write protection for its bootrom (actual name on the machine 'firmware' given by mrchromebox.tech's script) quite cleverly hidden. While most Chromebooks have a split screw pad or manual switch or screw combination that you can remove or toggle, this one uses the battery type; disconnect the battery after enabling developer mode and connect the type-c charger and you are good to go. Right?
Wrong.
When you do that, the charging light and the screen sit there looking at you flashing white and doing nothing.
What you need to do is open up the case (eight screws at the back) and remove the keyboard without disconnecting or cutting the ribbon cables connecting it to the mainboard. Then, with the type-c charger connected and turned on, power on the machine and disconnect the battery while it is fully powered up. Don't worry, this process is completely safe. For you.
Next, press ctrl+d to drop into developer mode, enter the terminal using ctrl+alt+f2, log in as chronos using just username chronos and drop into linux root using sudo -i command. From there you can enter the command to disable firmware write protection permanently and go about your way flashing the bios using mr chromebox's very useful script which will then allow you to install Windows, Linux, doors, locks, roofs and keys any way you see fit.
Don't forget to reconnect the battery when you are done.
Windows 10 only comes with basic drivers for this machine, so you will need to look for drivers for sound, mouse, base system devices and some other shit yourself. Most of these are available at Coolstar's Website.
I was using a 65W type-c charger, and after I had completed the process, I noticed the laptop is rated to use a 45W charger. I hope the charger had variable output. The first method I tried might have worked... eh. I still succeeded.